Cycling in Puglia: 9 days between Matera and Lecce
Last October, I had the chance to get back on my bike in Italy, in the heart of a region that is particularly close to our hearts: Puglia. Although we have been offering cycling trips there for many years, our last on-the-ground inspection dated back to 2018. It was therefore time to update our routes, enrich our itineraries and, who knows, uncover a few new hidden gems to share with our cycling travelers.
As always on this type of trip, the goal was not only to check the roads. I also took the opportunity to visit the accommodations along the route and meet with our local partners, who play a major role in the quality of our trips.
I set off for a 9-day journey, including 7 days of solo cycling, through some of the most beautiful landscapes in Italy. A complete immersion among white villages, centuries-old olive trees and sea air.
Cycling in northern Puglia: trulli, white villages and UNESCO heritage From Montpellier, after a train ride to Paris and a flight to Bari, I finally arrived in Puglia… under the rain. My journey began in Matera, a city that remains captivating even at night and in wet weather.
Entirely white, carved into the rock and clinging to the edge of a cliff, Matera has a truly unique atmosphere. Its cobbled streets, steep staircases and especially its troglodyte neighborhoods, the famous Sassi spread across two rocky hillsides, give it a charm unlike any other.
Unfortunately, I only had one evening to explore before getting back on the road the next morning. While Matera is stunning, it is not the most cyclist-friendly city. I therefore chose to officially start my route in Gioia del Colle, about forty kilometers away. That is where I picked up my bike, adjusted it carefully and sent a quick photo to the rest of the team to mark the beginning of the adventure.
The first stage, relatively gentle in terms of elevation change, follows small country roads and olive groves for around forty kilometers to Alberobello. As I progressed, one of Puglia’s most iconic symbols began to appear more and more frequently: the trulli.
Alberobello is their capital. Its historic center, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is home to more than a hundred of these dry-stone houses with their distinctive conical roofs. Seeing so many of them clustered together is inevitably impressive. It is a centuries-old architectural tradition that sets the tone for a rich cycling journey through Puglia. This first part of the trip passes through absolutely beautiful villages and historic centers. The second stage, heading toward Ostuni, is a perfect example. I stopped for a cappuccino in Locorotondo, with its immaculate streets and laundry hanging from balconies, a postcard version of Italy. Further along, I wandered through the streets of Martina Franca before getting back on the bike.
What surprised me most was meeting so many cyclists in these villages while seeing almost no one on the roads. The routes we use are generally very quiet, often winding through countryside tracks between olive trees and vineyards. The climbs leading up to these villages can be a bit more demanding, but with strong legs and a bit of determination, they are always manageable.
Before leaving northern Puglia for the Salento region further south, I ended the day with an excellent dinner alongside our Italian partners. After years of exchanging emails, phone calls and video meetings, it was a real pleasure to finally meet in person. They introduced me to several local specialties, including a succession of typical antipasti: Burrata di Andria, parmesan-stuffed mussels, melanzane sott’olio. Simply delicious.
Cycling in the Salento: turquoise waters, fortified villages and Mediterranean atmosphere
The next morning, I loaded my bike onto a train bound for Lecce. A pleasant surprise: in Puglia, regional trains accept bicycles free of charge. Stations are even equipped with ramps to move between platforms. It is not always easy to handle when traveling alone, but it works out in the end.
From Lecce, I set off again along peaceful Italian back roads toward Gallipoli, on the Ionian coast. It is only as you approach the city that the sea finally comes into view. From that moment on, everything changes: the atmosphere, the light, the scent of the air, and the constant presence of the sea. In Gallipoli, I was welcomed by Alberto, the owner of a charming guesthouse in the heart of the old town. Breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace, with views over white rooftops on one side and endless blue on the other. The perfect way to fuel up before continuing the journey.
In my opinion, the most beautiful stage of this cycling trip, and also one of the most hilly, is the stretch between Otranto and Lecce. The road winds through striking landscapes: wide valleys, almost arid land that sometimes feels desert-like, before suddenly opening up to the sea just a few kilometers later.
Leuca is a lively seaside town, with beachfront restaurants and a promenade that vaguely recalls the Promenade des Anglais. Otranto, on the other hand, feels more dynamic, with a charming historic center and narrow streets reminiscent of northern Puglia. From its marina, I looked out to sea. Albania is really not that far away.
I was lucky with the weather : bright sunshine all week long. The only downside was a fairly strong wind, which made cycling along the Adriatic coast a bit frustrating at times. Fortunately, the final stage more than made up for it. The route passes through Torre dell’Orso, famous for its cliffs plunging into turquoise water. Impossible to resist. I found a small sheltered cove with crystal-clear water and took advantage of an impromptu swim. A small tip for your trip to Puglia: always keep your swimsuit in your pannier, just in case. After drying off in the sun, I rode back toward Lecce. Once again, the route follows very quiet roads. I even passed through Acaya, a fortified village that was almost deserted that day, a stark contrast to the lively atmosphere of Lecce. Cycle paths gradually reappear as you approach the city, which is reassuring amid the traffic.
Lecce is an unmissable stop on this itinerary. Its baroque architecture, numerous cathedrals and Roman ruins right in the city center are absolutely stunning. It is the perfect ending to a cycling journey through Puglia.
Why choose a cycling trip in Puglia?
In short, this trip was a true favorite. I could have gone on about the countless Italian specialties enjoyed along the way, pasta dishes, local cured meats, pistachio pastries, but I chose to focus on what really matters: the roads, the encounters and the towns that give Puglia all its charm.
This journey also allowed us to update several routes and make sure accommodations still meet your expectations, spoiler alert, there is nothing to worry about. Like any living experience, a cycling trip is never fixed in time. It needs to be continuously refined to offer the best possible adventure.
It is this combination of landscapes, flavors and atmosphere that makes cycling in Puglia such a unique experience, one that truly deserves to be discovered.
Home 
From France :+ 33 (0)1 80 91 98 18