Cycling in Puglia: 9 days between Matera and Lecce
Last October, I had the chance to get back on my bike in Italy, in the heart of a region that is particularly close to our hearts: Puglia. Although we have been offering cycling trips there for many years, our last on-the-ground inspection dated back to 2018. It was therefore time to update our routes, enrich our itineraries and, who knows, uncover a few new hidden gems to share with our cycling travelers.
As always on this type of trip, the goal was not only to check the roads. I also took the opportunity to visit the accommodations along the route and meet with our local partners, who play a major role in the quality of our trips.
I set off for a 9-day journey, including 7 days of solo cycling, through some of the most beautiful landscapes in Italy. A complete immersion among white villages, centuries-old olive trees and sea air.
Cycling in northern Puglia: trulli, white villages and UNESCO heritage From Montpellier, after a train ride to Paris and a flight to Bari, I finally arrived in Puglia… under the rain. My journey began in Matera, a city that remains captivating even at night and in wet weather.
Entirely white, carved into the rock and clinging to the edge of a cliff, Matera has a truly unique atmosphere. Its cobbled streets, steep staircases and especially its troglodyte neighborhoods, the famous Sassi spread across two rocky hillsides, give it a charm unlike any other.
Unfortunately, I only had one evening to explore before getting back on the road the next morning. While Matera is stunning, it is not the most cyclist-friendly city. I therefore chose to officially start my route in Gioia del Colle, about forty kilometers away. That is where I picked up my bike, adjusted it carefully and sent a quick photo to the rest of the team to mark the beginning of the adventure.
The first stage, relatively gentle in terms of elevation change, follows small country roads and olive groves for around forty kilometers to Alberobello. As I progressed, one of Puglia’s most iconic symbols began to appear more and more frequently: the trulli.
Alberobello is their capital. Its historic center, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is home to more than a hundred of these dry-stone houses with their distinctive conical roofs. Seeing so many of them clustered together is inevitably impressive. It is a centuries-old architectural tradition that sets the tone for a rich cycling journey through Puglia. This first part of the trip passes through absolutely beautiful villages and historic centers. The second stage, heading toward Ostuni, is a perfect example. I stopped for a cappuccino in Locorotondo, with its immaculate streets and laundry hanging from balconies, a postcard version of Italy. Further along, I wandered through the streets of Martina Franca before getting back on the bike.
What surprised me most was meeting so many cyclists in these villages while seeing almost no one on the roads. The routes we use are generally very quiet, often winding through countryside tracks between olive trees and vineyards. The climbs leading up to these villages can be a bit more demanding, but with strong legs and a bit of determination, they are always manageable.
Before leaving northern Puglia for the Salento region further south, I ended the day with an excellent dinner alongside our Italian partners. After years of exchanging emails, phone calls and video meetings, it was a real pleasure to finally meet in person. They introduced me to several local specialties, including a succession of typical antipasti: Burrata di Andria, parmesan-stuffed mussels, melanzane sott’olio. Simply delicious.
Cycling in the Salento: turquoise waters, fortified villages and Mediterranean atmosphere
The next morning, I loaded my bike onto a train bound for Lecce. A pleasant surprise: in Puglia, regional trains accept bicycles free of charge. Stations are even equipped with ramps to move between platforms. It is not always easy to handle when traveling alone, but it works out in the end.
From Lecce, I set off again along peaceful Italian back roads toward Gallipoli, on the Ionian coast. It is only as you approach the city that the sea finally comes into view. From that moment on, everything changes: the atmosphere, the light, the scent of the air, and the constant presence of the sea. In Gallipoli, I was welcomed by Alberto, the owner of a charming guesthouse in the heart of the old town. Breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace, with views over white rooftops on one side and endless blue on the other. The perfect way to fuel up before continuing the journey.
In my opinion, the most beautiful stage of this cycling trip, and also one of the most hilly, is the stretch between Otranto and Lecce. The road winds through striking landscapes: wide valleys, almost arid land that sometimes feels desert-like, before suddenly opening up to the sea just a few kilometers later.
Leuca is a lively seaside town, with beachfront restaurants and a promenade that vaguely recalls the Promenade des Anglais. Otranto, on the other hand, feels more dynamic, with a charming historic center and narrow streets reminiscent of northern Puglia. From its marina, I looked out to sea. Albania is really not that far away.
I was lucky with the weather : bright sunshine all week long. The only downside was a fairly strong wind, which made cycling along the Adriatic coast a bit frustrating at times. Fortunately, the final stage more than made up for it. The route passes through Torre dell’Orso, famous for its cliffs plunging into turquoise water. Impossible to resist. I found a small sheltered cove with crystal-clear water and took advantage of an impromptu swim. A small tip for your trip to Puglia: always keep your swimsuit in your pannier, just in case. After drying off in the sun, I rode back toward Lecce. Once again, the route follows very quiet roads. I even passed through Acaya, a fortified village that was almost deserted that day, a stark contrast to the lively atmosphere of Lecce. Cycle paths gradually reappear as you approach the city, which is reassuring amid the traffic.
Lecce is an unmissable stop on this itinerary. Its baroque architecture, numerous cathedrals and Roman ruins right in the city center are absolutely stunning. It is the perfect ending to a cycling journey through Puglia.
Why choose a cycling trip in Puglia?
In short, this trip was a true favorite. I could have gone on about the countless Italian specialties enjoyed along the way, pasta dishes, local cured meats, pistachio pastries, but I chose to focus on what really matters: the roads, the encounters and the towns that give Puglia all its charm.
This journey also allowed us to update several routes and make sure accommodations still meet your expectations, spoiler alert, there is nothing to worry about. Like any living experience, a cycling trip is never fixed in time. It needs to be continuously refined to offer the best possible adventure.
It is this combination of landscapes, flavors and atmosphere that makes cycling in Puglia such a unique experience, one that truly deserves to be discovered.
Field Report: Cycling the Atlantic Coast — From Nantes to Royan
At Le Vélo voyageur, our trips are never set in stone.Every year, we return to the field — to fine-tune our itineraries and maintain direct relationships with our local partners. We update GPS tracks, add new activities, and make sure every detail is in perfect order so that you can enjoy the best possible experience.And between us… it’s not exactly the hardest part of our job.
This time, we set off along the Atlantic Coast, following La Vélodyssée between Nantes and Royan — an itinerary we know well, but one that’s always worth revisiting.
Day 1: From Nantes to Pornic Our trip began in Nantes, along the banks of the Loire. A blend of port-city history and modern dynamism, it’s a place where life feels good.
It’s also where writer Jules Verne was born in the early 1800s — no wonder adventure still lingers in the air.
We love this city for its energy as much as for the warm welcome from our partner accommodations. Nantes is also known for its rich cuisine — full of butter and white wine — so of course, we had to stop for a little indulgence: a classic crêpe beurre-sucre.
To save some time on the route, we took the car south toward La Rochelle, with a must-stop in the lovely maritime town of Pornic.
Feet in the water, sun on our faces, a plate of oysters (team lemon or shallot-vinegar?) — the perfect end to our first day on the Atlantic Coast.
Day 2: Les Sables-d’Olonne & La Tranche-sur-Mer — Between Dunes and Sea Spray The road continues to Les Sables-d’Olonne, a mecca for sailing and the starting point of the legendary Vendée Globe.
Sea, sails, and endless horizon — everything here breathes the open ocean.
The day was filled with visits to our partners — hoteliers, bike renters, and restaurateurs. This close collaboration has been part of Le Vélo voyageur’s DNA since the very beginning.
These exchanges help us integrate on-the-ground feedback, improve our trips, and sometimes even discover new addresses or refine a GPS track for smoother navigation.
After checking the last details, we headed for La Tranche-sur-Mer — endless beaches, golden dunes, pine forests… a true postcard setting.
So peaceful that only the call of seagulls breaks the silence.
As always, we left feeling recharged and ready to hop back on our bikes.
Day 3: La Rochelle to Rochefort After a short ride through La Rochelle, we continued toward Royan.
There’s something special about cycling along the Atlantic Coast — landscapes change with the tides, and each stage reveals a new side of western France.
First stop: Rochefort, where several long-time hotel partners were waiting for us. We exchanged feedback, discussed future updates, and planned a few improvements.
This town carries the weight of history — once a simple castle, it flourished under Louis XIV, who built a major naval arsenal here. It’s also where Jacques Demy filmed The Young Girls of Rochefort in 1967, giving the city its poetic aura.
Before hitting the road again, we took a moment to admire the iconic Transbordeur Bridge, proudly spanning the Charente River.
Day 4: La Tremblade to Royan — Our Favourite Stage Pedalling toward La Tremblade, La Vélodyssée winds through vast pine forests and canals lined with reeds. Wind in our hair, sea air in our lungs – every pedal stroke tastes like freedom.
We passed colourful oyster huts, a sign that the Cité de l’Huître Museum wasn’t far. On clear days, you can even spot the silhouette of the Île d’Oléron on the horizon.
People say the best comes last — and it’s hard to disagree. Each time we ride this section between La Tremblade and Royan, the light is breathtaking. The scent of pine mingles with the ocean breeze, and the views over the Gironde estuary are stunning.
Even though we know this itinerary by heart, the tides change everything. That’s the magic of the Atlantic Coast — a landscape that never looks quite the same twice.
The perfect ending to another field experience.
Why we do these field trips
These test trips are essential: they let us experience your itineraries before you do.
We can spot the small details that make a big difference : the scenic detour, the perfect viewpoint, the café that serves the warmest coffee in the morning.
They’re also a chance to strengthen relationships with our partners, check services, and prepare for the upcoming 2026 season: luggage transfers, bike logistics, on-site welcomes… everything is reviewed to guarantee a unique, seamless experience.
Between nature, freedom, and human connections, this trip captures Le Vélo voyageur’s spirit in its purest form.
Retour de visite sur la côte Atlantique : de Nantes à Royan sur la Vélodyssée
Chez le Vélo voyageur, nos séjours ne sont jamais figés. On repart chaque année sur le terrain, à la fois pour affiner les itinéraires, mais aussi pour maintenir le lien direct avec nos partenaires. On met à jour certaines traces GPS, on ajoute de nouvelles activités. Ça nous permet de tester nous-mêmes nos séjours et de vérifier que chaque détail est en ordre pour vous proposer la meilleure expérience possible. Et puis entre nous, ce n’est pas la partie la plus désagréable du travail…
Cette fois-ci, c’est sur la côte Atlantique, le long de la Vélodyssée entre Nantes et Royan, que nous avons enfourché nos vélos. Un itinéraire que nous connaissons bien, mais qu’il est toujours bon de revisiter.
Jour 1 : de Nantes à Pornic – départ de l’aventure Notre aventure commence à Nantes, au bord de la Loire. Mélange de ville portuaire historique et de modernité, il y fait bon vivre. C’est ici, au début des années 1800, qu’est né Jules Verne. Pas étonnant qu’une légère odeur d’aventure flotte encore dans l’air.
Si on apprécie autant cette ville, c’est autant pour son énergie que pour la qualité de nos hébergements partenaires, toujours très accueillants avec nos voyageurs. Nantes, c’est aussi une cuisine riche, à base de beurre et de vin blanc. On s’accorde donc une petite pause gourmande – crêpes beurre-sucre, évidemment.
Pour gagner un peu de temps sur le parcours, on grimpe dans la voiture en direction de La Rochelle.
Halte obligatoire dans la charmante ville maritime de Pornic, où l’on profite d’un moment de détente bien mérité. Les pieds dans l’eau, le soleil sur le visage, quelques huîtres pour l’ambiance (plutôt citron ou vinaigre-échalotes ?) : difficile de rêver mieux pour clôturer cette première journée sur la côte Atlantique.
Jour 2 : Les Sables-d’Olonne et La Tranche-sur-Mer – entre dunes et embruns La route continue jusqu’aux Sables-d’Olonne, haut lieu du nautisme et point de départ du mythique Vendée Globe. Mer, voiles, horizon… ici, tout respire le grand large.
La journée s’enchaîne avec la rencontre de nos partenaires : hébergeurs, loueurs et restaurateurs. Une proximité qui fait partie de notre ADN depuis la création du Vélo voyageur.
Ces échanges permettent d’intégrer les retours terrain dans l’évolution du séjour et d’assurer une qualité constante. Parfois, c’est aussi l’occasion de repérer une nouvelle adresse ou d’ajuster le tracé pour fluidifier le parcours.
Après avoir réglé les derniers détails, direction La Tranche-sur-Mer. Plages interminables, dunes blondes, forêts de pins : un vrai décor de carte postale. Et quelle tranquillité… Seul le cri des mouettes vient perturber le son du vent à travers les branches. Comme à chaque fois, on en ressort ressourcés, prêts à enfourcher nos vélos.
Jour 3 : La Rochelle à Rochefort – des villes chargées d’histoire Après une brève traversée de La Rochelle, direction Royan. Il y a quelque chose de particulier à longer la côte Atlantique à vélo. Les paysages changent au rythme des marées et chaque étape raconte une nouvelle facette de l’Ouest français.
Première étape : Rochefort, où nous attendent plusieurs de nos partenaires hôteliers de longue date. On échange sur les retours clients, les petites améliorations à prévoir et les nouveautés à venir. Il faut dire que cette ville est chargée d’histoire. D’un simple château, elle se développe sous le règne de Louis XIV qui souhaite y abriter son arsenal maritime. C’est aussi ici que Jacques Demy tourna Les Demoiselles de Rochefort en 1967, donnant à la ville cette aura poétique.
Autant dire que les idées d’activités ne manquent pas. La journée file d’une traite. Avant de reprendre la route, on prend quand même le temps d’admirer le célèbre pont Transbordeur qui trône fièrement sur la Charente.
Jour 4 : La Tremblade à Royan – notre coup de cœur du voyage En pédalant vers La Tremblade, la Vélodyssée nous guide à travers de vastes pinèdes et des canaux bordés de roseaux. Le vent dans les cheveux, l’air marin qui caresse les narines, chaque coup de pédale a comme un goût de liberté.
On croise les premières cabanes ostréicoles colorées, signe que le musée de la Cité de l’Huître n’est pas loin. Le ciel est si clair qu’à l’horizon, on distingue même la silhouette de la presqu’île d’Oléron.
On dit souvent qu’on garde le meilleur pour la fin. Et avec ce dernier tronçon entre La Tremblade et Royan, difficile de dire le contraire. À chaque fois que l’on parcourt cette étape, la lumière est toujours sublime. Le parfum des pins se mêle à celui de l’océan, et les panoramas sur l’estuaire de la Gironde sont à couper le souffle. On aura beau connaître ce séjour sur le bout des doigts, les marées transforment toujours le paysage. Et c’est peut-être ça, la magie de la côte Atlantique : un décor qui ne se répète jamais tout à fait.
La conclusion parfaite pour une nouvelle expérience sur le terrain.
Pourquoi ce voyage à vélo sur la côte Atlantique ?
Ces voyages-tests sont essentiels : ils nous permettent de vivre vos itinéraires avant vous. De repérer les petits détails qui font une vraie différence : le bon détour, le meilleur point de vue, la terrasse où l’on sert le café le plus chaud le matin.
C’est aussi l’occasion de renforcer nos liens avec les hébergeurs, de vérifier les prestations et de préparer la saison 2026 : livraison de bagages, vélos, accueil sur place… tout a été passé en revue pour que vous profitiez d’une expérience unique et personnalisée.
Un voyage donne le goût de la route et de la lenteur. Entre nature, liberté et rencontres, ce voyage résume à lui seul l’esprit du Vélo voyageur.